Ketchican Alaska to Seattle on a 50 ft Steel Scow

When I was first contacted about this and looked at the survey I thought it was a really cool boat but that I would not be able to find crew. It was as “un-yacht-y” vessel as I could imagine but after looking at the additional pictures I realized that there was one person who could appreciate it.

Doug Simmons checkin out our ride for the next week.

I met Doug and came to know him during the pandemic when I saw him on his boat out on Griffin Bay when we were not supposed to leave the dock. He was in his 70s Islander 28 sailing out of Fisherman’s Bay on Lopez Island and I was on my Moore 24 and we both were flying our yellow Q flags as a quiet protest of the lockdown. I instantly recognized a fellow feral scallywag who would not be kept from sailing on Sunday. We have since gotten to know each other over many Sunday raft ups off Turn Island half way between our home ports. Doug used to run a piledriving crew who were responsible for building many of the piers and ferry docks in the Salish sea. The fact that this was a work scow was probably more appealing to Doug than if it had been a yacht. Doug hadn’t cruised the waters north of the San Juans so it wasnt hard to get him aboard. I do feel a little bad though because I promised a scenic summer cruise through waters of the Great Bear Rainforest, Broughton Archipelago, and Desolation Sound but it turned out to be a week of working in an engine room.

I dont know many sailors that could have started this old 2 stroke Evenrude.

Its whats on the inside that counts sometimes.

The other crewmember was David Engish who I’ve known my whole life was the older kid that lived next door when I was little. Dave is a brilliant engineer and adventurer had also never done this passage. I figured these two would get each other and be good for conversation but also good with comfortable silence..and if it came to it.. be a very handy team if we had to fix something in remote waters.

The new owner was planning to live aboard the boat on Lake Union in Seattle part time. Kind of like a apartment in the city. Quite a different life than the boat had seen with its former owner where it served as a platform for Bear Hunting Business. This may sound very strange but it isn’t as unusual as you might think. I was once hired to deliver a boat to Valdez Alaska for a guy who had a similar business.

I asked if the owner wanted to go before I agreed to do the job and he said no but then invited himself aboard at the last minute when he met us at the boat.

Its hard to explain why this is frustrating. He was a nice guy on the phone but it changes the dynamic and although the crew said they were okay with it we had to share a cabin and after days of not cooking or helping work on the boat it was beginning to test my patience. When he originally said he wanted to go I asked him if he was going to participate with shipboard duties and he said yes he did not..

Ketchican is a wonderful Alaskan town and well stocked as remote towns go. We provisioned and looked at the route ahead to nagoiate weather and tides. The low freeboard and flat bow necessitated we avoid rough stuff and the boarder crossing would require that we head quite a way out of our way to Prince Rupert.




Anacortes to LA Day 17

Fueled in Monterey 



62 gal



Left 8:30am

Trying to figure why arent transmitting on AIS



Point Conception!



Noticed compressor mount isn’t parallel which is part of the alternator bracket that the previous owner made and that we have been struggling with. The pulleys need to be inline otherwise the belts wear and the bearings in the compressor get worn out.

Noticed “reset” on regulator interface. We should have gotten a new regulator as well as alternator. Situations like these were the owner is afraid to spend more money can end up more expensive.

Anacortes to LA Day 12

Heading into Coos Bay. Lost second reef line in the night. (Should have kept old cables from the transmission because we could have used then to pull reef line through the boom again.)

Cross bar at 10:20 autopilot not functioning right.

We are heading in because the weather has deteriorated and we will not get around the cape before it hits.

The crew have to get back to their lives and have given so much to this helping get the boat this far.

I will hang out on the boat and reach out to potential crew to finish the trip. Fortunately Tom and Max are going to come back for the rest of the trip. This short notice recrewing is a real challenge though. People of course need notice to join on these passages so it seriously limits who we can get. We could do the rest of the trip with the three of us but we still have three capes to go and a boat that is proving to be worn out in more ways than one.

I decide to head up the river to the “City of Coos Bay” rather than Charleston the little fishing port close to the entrance. Coos Bay is a very charming little coastal town with a two big linear docks a short walk to everything. When we arrived the guys split off to rent a car and Tom and I found City Hall to pay for moorage.



Anacortes to LA Day 11

We left at 6:30 after running the engine to confirm the batteries were charging. No leaks of coolant or oil from the manifold the only issue was it was going to be the sea state running to due to max ebb at 7:30. These bars should be negotiated before slack or on the flood but if you are heading out you can get away with going on the ebb in calm weather. However you must be committed because turning around is not really and option.

Popping wheelies on the Grays Harbor Bar.

Steep 8 footers and water on the deck with a little through the forhatch. Then upon successfully catching the drone Har Rai when walking forward to the cockpit drone in one hand and remote in the other fell onto the side deck and dropped the drone. It bounced before it went overboard and in his despair lost his glasses as well. It can not be said enough. “one hand for the ship and one hand for the sailor.” Madison was standing by on the aft deck and could have carried the remote while Har Rai carried the drone.

Freshly harvested razor clams for dinner thanks to Mary Tom’s friend!

Anacortes to LA Day 10 Lay day for the boys

Went over expenses and found almost $4000 in provisions, meals, parts, fuel, and moorage. This was getting concerning in addition to the extra time this was taking so I called the owner and caught up on payment. It is always hard when people relatively new to boating buy a boat and have a budget in mind and things cost more then what they allocated for it. To make it worse in cases like this; all before they have had the opportunity to enjoy the boat. One good thing that was coming out of all this tribulation was that Har Rai was beginning to doubt the prospect of boat ownership. He had hired me prior to this trip to look at some boats with him and was posed to buy a boat to take his family out and share his love of sailing on. We did a test sail on a sweet little J28 and he was having a survey done while we were on this trip. Rick from Salty Boys Boat works who replaced the transmission in Port Townsend said he was doing a mechanical survey in the same marina as the J28 and offered to take a look at it pro bono. This proved to be a blessing as he found a broken motor mount and a few other things that made the asking price too high. The sellers, it turned out, did not want to negotiate and Har Rai walked away, or dodged a bullet. 

Met up with a rockstar crabber friend of mine Capt Lars and later in the day he showed this his boat just two boats down from our slip.

Capt Lars’ boat

Lars told us about lost pots how rival crabbers steal from other people pots.  

The electrician “Christian” is scheduled to return to install the alternator. The unit was purchased from Fisheries Supply in Seattle and was transported via a of Tom’s friend Mary who happened to be meeting up with her friend in Olympia and who was coming down from Everett. I guess Mary and her friend meet each other part way regularly to stay in touch. If we had it sent by Fisheries we would have lost another day at least.

It takes a village and contacts in every port is a god send.

Alternator in by 18:00 OT for Xian.

not looking forward ..

looking ahead

Anacortes to LA Day 9

At 3 am the night before, we found out that the batteries were not charging and even after shutting everything down, the engine died just after we crossed the bar going into Westport. This is because the fuel pump and solenoid need power to keep the engine running, and although there were two alternators on the engine (one for the start battery and one for the house bank), they share a regulator and because the solenoid needs power to open the fuel line and keep it open during operation. After the engine died we sailed back and forth until a boat came out to tow us in. I was tempted to sail the boat in because I know the marina well, and the wind was favorable, but fishing boats were coming and going, and the entrance was tight with poor visibility around the breakwater. This is a tough one because part of me knows I can get the boat on the dock without the tow and save the owner some money, but part of me knows that if I’m coming in and there is a collision, I’m liable as the licensed captain. Most marinas do not allow sailing in. This is the question of “can you” vs “should you”. I spoke at length with Capt Ray McCormack (link below) after he sunk a boat in Mexico about this issue exactly. It is easy to see yourself as many customers do, ie: “get a boat from A to B, whatever the risk, despite whatever stops working”. I want to help however my skills allow, but the primary reason I’m hired to move the boat is to make prudent decisions and only “cowboy” and ”jury rig” when all other options have been exhausted.

Once in we speak with an electrician at Balmar and learn that the Alternator went out of production 25 years ago. He advises us to clear the regulator’s computer by switching the battery type to lead acid and then back to lithium. This is easier said than done. To keep their regulators resistant to the marine environment, the components are encased in resin so you have to use a special Balmar screwdriver with a little magnet on the back to cycle through the menu while referring to the manual. We run a dockside test, and it appears to be charging.

Some local color at the chandlery

Cast off at 10

Minus amps found just before the bar after working fine last night at the dock.

Turn around and head back to the dock.

Did some extra work at the dock while trying to coordinate a new alternator ASAP.

Fixed the batten on the stack pack.

Pad eye for lee cloth aft installed

Tuned lowers

Watered up

Tightened belts 

Fueled up

Fix of oil manifold noted leak

Noted leak of coolant 

New alternator coming

Ray McCormack interview

Anacortes to LA Day 8 birthday offshore

20 miles offshore FIRE!

“Hey skipper theres some smoke in the aft cabin you should have a look at I think something is on fire.” I run into the aft cabin and the crew start singing happy birthday holding a cupcake with a candle in it.

What a great bunch of guys.

We are running down the meandering 70 fathom line (420 feet) to avoid crabbing gear. I know this is the depth most likely safe from fouling our prop because I spoke to my friend Capt Lars who fishes this coastline.


He has also advised us to stay in the shipping lane if we approach West Port as opposed to the smaller boat channel to the south of the shipping lane. This is because the boats that catch the gear and continue into port deposit these pots in the shallower water of the channel. This too proves to be good council. 

I tell thte crew we will stop in Westport for fuel and to let the bigger seas left over from the last blow subside. 

1:30 am no pots sighted 

We need to cross the bar in the daylight flood because of pots. The next bar we can make due to tide in this time frame is Newport but I think it will put us in 13 footers.

Note the contour lines.

All really fun stuff happens offshore at 3 am..

The boat is proving to be a bit of a broach coach.

The winds forecast haven’t appeared 

Supposed to be 20 now

Need to regain some faith in the boat 

3am

Lost charging from alternators (due to regulator failure). Eventually the engine dies because the fuel shutoff solenoid needs power to stay open and is internal so impossible to override.

Anacortes to LA Day 7

Doing 8+ now 6:50 riding an ebb.

Well, it’s been almost a week of tribulation and hard work from the crew and others to get us back on the water. We have experienced a number of mechanical issues since we got to the boat and are very glad to be underway. Special thanks to the crew of Salty Boys Boat Works and family for dropping everything and coming out to replace the transmission of this newly purchased boat. This expensive mishap certainly demonstrates the importance of getting a mechanical survey from a trusted mechanic prior to buying a boat and or planning a passage of any distance. 

We set aside just over two weeks for this delivery to LA. We have eaten up a lot of that time working on the boat. If weather cooperates, we may still make it in our allotted time. But if not, we will do everything we can to get as close to the destination as possible. This crew has raised to the occasion making up for the boat’s deficiencies. I can say I am deeply honored to call these gentleman shipmates. Over these last days at any given time there were three projects underway at once and while the owner was complaining about the cost, having professionals do this work instead of volunteers would have been very expensive. Currently, we are motoring in positive current out the Strait of Juan De Fuca in sunshine and light breeze, the new transmission is working beautifully and spirits are high. The forecast on the coast has shown weather beginning to settle into Westerly whereas only a few weeks ago we were seeing Southerly‘s of Gale force with some regularity. Pilot charts that show the statistical probability of different wind directions at strengths showed a marked difference between the historical weather for March and April. Originally the owner had wanted us to take the boat south in March, but I said we have a better chance of favorable weather in April. I had been watching it closely ever since wondering if the statistical data representing April or March was based on mid month or the beginning. 

Max

Tomorrow is my birthday and I couldn’t imagine a better bunch of gentlemen to spend with doing something we all love.

I get a lot of pleasure out of putting Crews like these together and introducing these shipmates of mine to each other.

I have been so busy putting out fires that I had to keep pushing back a scheduled zoom interview with a past customer who is an example of a customer who is now a close shipmate and one of the best things about this work. He was a delivery customer who is now in the South Pacific cruising on the boat I helped him and his partner move many years ago now. Hopefully, we will get time to have our catch up call soon. Some of this crew have sailed with him and it would be nice to have a reunion of sorts if only through our Starlinks.

Tatoosh Island and the furthest NW point of the lower 48.

Anacortes to LA Day 6


10 o’clock finding out the wrong dampener plate was picked up using the old dampener plate which is oversized and would void the warranty.


Trans cooler (dunzo)


Part of the boat’s former exhaust line.

new gear

Full court press on running new gear cables and a broken bolt to put it past dinner time.

Madison Rawley


HarRai Khalsa

Tom Muir

Some think that “PT” stands for Port Townsend but I know it stands for Pizza Town.

Boy are still working on drilling out broken screw in upper cable mount at 7



 

Anacortes to LA Day 5

PT

9 am after an awesome breakfast at the Blue Moose (one of the two restaurants inside the boat yard) and back to boat to measure the transmission and use the photo rpm gauge we got in PA to confirm the gear ratio.

Found the rpm confirming what the surveyor noted (not sure sure how he did this as the trans cooler was mounted the the ID plate).

Rick called to confirm that the transmission was what was on survey and asked for pictures of the trans cooler 

Jamie Rick’s helper said throughhull was loose and pack gland bellows were not set right.

A thorough mechanical survey would have caught that this was the original transmission with an adaptor mating it to an engine of twice the recommended horsepower.

Rick impressed the crew by the speed with which his team removed this transmission from its tiny cramped space and impressed them just as much by jumping to the dock from the deck with it in hand.

Salty Boy’s Boat Works (dream team)

“Miles” apprentice

Cool kids table. Sirens next!

Anacortes to LA Day 4

8am at it

Parts pick up

The new port running light is installed by Tom. Max and I do the dockside set up on the autopilot and we head out to do the sea trial calibration. 

I move to inspecting some of the chafe spots Tom is concerned about. I had noticed that the spinnaker halyards showed chafe where they had been allowed to hit the spreaders, but hadn’t been concerned about it myself. Tom ran his own rigging company for 15 years, so I listened to him and ran a messenger so we could get a better look at it before going up. The chafe was barely into the cover, and it was core dependent line, but I’m glad I decided to go aloft because the U bolt that held the spinnaker halyard block to the masthead crane had a nut that was in the process of spinning off, and I was effectively hanging on one nut.

Some jobs require a lucky hat.

Outboard nut is backed off. Hard to see here. these are not “nylock” nuts because they are supposed to be hammered with a pin to prevent this. Pro Tip: get a rigging survey when you buy a boat.

The most dangerous job here is going to a height you wouldn’t survive a fall from. The second most dangerous job is being under a person working. I use lanyards when I can but never pull a tool out until people below are clear. If you are on the deck move slowly if the boat is small and tender and always watch the person aloft.

We cast off with hard won confidence and by 14:30 the transmission starts slipping.  We disconnect the cable from the transmission to confirm that it wasn’t because it just wasn’t engaging all the way and find that it was in fact engaging and that the transmission was just failing. 

Slipped again, then tried extending the arm by removing the binnacle attach point and adding quarter inch throw, then tried removing entirely and pushing arm on the transmission all the way down.

Tom looked up the Hurth transmission finding that “when they go they go” Rick confirmed and added that they don’t bother rebuilding the kind we had. 

Not the first retreat from the ocean but a far better time to find out than off the coast.

We turn back dejected but happy to use the now building Southwesterly that the 30 knot coastal winds is bringing us. We are fighting an ebb and the chop gives us a taste of of how the boat will preform in the ocean with a following breeze…a bit of a “Tilt’n Hilton” but not quite a “Broach Coach”.

I inform owner that Rick can get a new transmission installed at emergency rate the following day and have us back on the water in a day or two. The owner agrees and we sail past PA for Port Townsend. I call Odin Smith a shipmate and rigger colleague that lives aboard in Boat Haven that we may have to sail in and to advise us on wind strength in the harbor and if the outside linear dock is clear. He says it only 10 knots in the marina, the dock is clear, and offers to come out if we need a hand. 

PT is a more convenient place for the repair and a more interesting place to spend free time.. that free time unfortunately never presents itself at least to this captain. (However he does find time for a slice of his much loved Waterfront Pizza and a pint at the Sirens bar.)

Anacortes to LA Day 3

PA work

In the engine room we found that the custom alternator bracket that the former owner had made was missing one of its four bolts and that there was an air line used to connect the coolant reservoir and that subsequently coolant had been leaking onto the starter terminals.

We consult Rick from Salty Boys Boat Works and he advises we buy a manual oil pressure gauge so we can confirm our oil pressure. We do and it is high so high that he is concerned about our success. I call Ben Stickle from Cook Engine in Portland for a second opinion and he recommends we change the oil. He goes on to recommend we get the engine hot and add diesel to the oil for the last few minutes of running to act as a solvint to break down any thicker oil residue. The old was changed (allegedly) along with the impeller. There is no sign of this as there is no date written on the oil filter. (you should do this) We buy oil and a filter and borrow an oil change pump from the gentlemen at the marina office and change the oil. They advise us to put in an order at fisheries before 3:00 so anything we need is there in the morning. 

Oil pressure?

External oil pressure gauge we installed.

While I was doing this, Madison and Tom had started to clean the terminals on the starter.  Max was checking the deck plugs to see if the spotlight worked, and Har Rai was removing the plug from the main halyard’s electric mast winch. 

Electric winches can be handy on bigger boats but having the switch in the cockpit behind a full canvas enclosure is very awkward.

Leaky gasket found after replacing the coolant overflow hose with spec.

After cleaning the terminals and running the engine, Madison noticed that the coolant cap was leaking. So we added a cap to the list. Fortunately this is not a special Perkins part and it was easily sourced locally. 

Got off the dock and did see a trial test on autopilot in the bay.

The oil change and flush reduced the psi to 59 at WOT (wide open throttle) when it had been 70 psi at cruise RPM.

Anacortes to LA Cast off Day 2

Tom arrived the night before to find an otter had defecated in the cockpit, requiring him to stay up and sanitize the cockpit. (Later, we learn that the cockpit drain’s hose clamps were loose and had introduced smelly water into the aft cabin)

Tom also checked the running lights and found the port light wasn’t working. I had checked this previously, and it was working weeks before, so we had an intermittent short somewhere in the anchor locker or a faulty light. This is common because this area is often wet and salty and therefore a terrible environment for electrical connections. 

This is what too much food looks like.

Crew arrives with food, and the forecast looks like we will have a lot of wind if we wait to depart the following morning. It also looks like we might have to try and get down the Washington coast and in before a forecast southerly hits, so we plan to cast off just before the fuel dock closes instead of the following day.


From my log

Headsail on at the fuel dock (I had taken all the sails I thought we would need to the sail loft in town for a survey where they found that the headsail’s sun cover was ready for replacement.)

Fueled up with 73 gallons (Forward most fuel deckfill is dead-ended and we just filled the fill hose. (Will have to empty later.) Yay (Pro tip: if you dont remove and repair everything from and old system be sure and leave notes.

Left from the fuel dock at 5:15 pm

No tachometer

No oil pressure (or not believable oil pressure reading)

Only oil pressure alarm and temp gauge working.. yay

Throttle slipping at 6:00 yay

Throttle not allowing full rpm at 6:20

Found that there was fuel starvation from the loose routing of fuel lines coming off the fuel filters mounted to the swinging door back of steps. Vac gauge recorded vacuum, and we are now closing the engine room door while watching from the side panel access. 

Autopilot is not working. Was allegedly dock programmed and was only needing sea trial set up. Will have to do this later. 

The throttle slips from our estimated cruising RPM because the fuel governor’s spring is too loaded. We have jury-rigged a wire to hold the throttle handle at the desired RPM at the binnacle. The former owner used clamps to put pressure on the throttle cables in two places, and it has resulted in allowing moisture into the cable housing and their subsequent deterioration. We don’t know the RPM as the tachometer is not functioning so using speed through water.

Speed through water not accurate..

There is an oil pressure solenoid manifold running off a splitter at the original oil pressure sender that houses two additional senders. It is leaking a little oil. We are watching this.

As we head to Port Angeles guest dock for the night the transmission slips out of gear.

Making the weather window is out of the question now so we will need to address what we can in Port Angelies.

Owner is updated and offers the crew a per diem for the work necessary the next day.

Oil solenoid manifold

One of the clamps on the throttle cables

Anacortes to LA Stevens 47 Day 1

Unfortunately, this delivery was one of the more eventful deliveries I’ve ever done…now that I say that, so many memories come to mind of more traumatizing deliveries. I should clarify that this was “eventful” in that there were several debilitating mechanical failures that caused substantial delays and cost for the owner. There were so many mechanical failures that the passage took three times as long as expected. The positive aspects were that we didn’t get bad weather and that the boat was delivered to the owner with a bunch of work done that they would have had to do or discover on their own.

One of the unfortunate things about this delivery was that because my crew and I were so busy “putting out fires,” we had little energy to write about it underway, which had been my plan originally—something that motivated me to get a Starlink before leaving, which nonetheless proved very handy. As always, I want to share sea stories and logbook quotes that are educational for those who are interested in pursuing sailing or passagemaking of this kind. I want to be entertaining enough to maintain readers' attention but concise enough not to waste time. As hard as this was for the owner, who had to pay quite a lot of money expediting repairs, there were many valuable lessons to be shared in this passage. I hope that we can transmute some of that frustration into an educational yarn.

I was contacted well before the delivery, which is nice because I can gather the best crew possible and the boat was located in Anacortes Washington and a ferry ride away, which allowed me to see it beforehand, another big plus. Another bitt of good fortune was that the owner wanted to do things right and was willing to pay for it, sadly, something that people don’t do enough.

Whenever I'm asked to move a newly bought boat out of the San Juans, I encourage people to use the vessel while it’s in this amazing cruising ground first. The new owner was amenable to that, and we discussed covering some of the ASA material and getting him certified to the Bareboat Cruising level while it was in the NW. Now I know what some are thinking: why isn't he already a certified or an otherwise capable skipper? While I strongly recommend people learn first and then look for a boat, many don’t do this, and there are lots of reasons for this. This boat buyer was purchasing a boat that he was planning to live on first and foremost, and then, by the time he retired, be at the level necessary to sail away.

Unfortunately, work got in the way of our shakedown cruise, and we had to focus on the delivery prep. This is expensive because owners pay for two slips until the crew can depart. Originally, we had spoken about leaving in March, but statistically speaking, the difference between March and April for finding favorable winds is distinct. (see scans of Pilot Charts) So I told the owner we could cast off in March, but we may have to wait on the weather once the crew gets together. This could result in several “lay days” waiting for weather, and worst case: having to recrew the boat in a semi-remote place. This makes transportation expensive and hard to find a good crew on short notice, once there is a weather window and the boat is ready.

All that said and we decided on the beginning of April to depart. I'm so glad that we did because there were southerly gales all through March, and even the week before we left, I was watching what was a substantial Southerly forecast to come in right as we were planning to head South around Cape Flattery. “Planning” we were but the boat had other ideas..

As I mentioned, I had a lot of lead time to put together a great crew. It was a group of gentlemen that I knew would get along and complement each other’s skills well, and would be good company for each other. Unfortunately, one dropped out a week before departure, and that is never good, but this possibility is part of the reason I try to bring a larger crew if we can accommodate it. Telling the crew that while these numbers seem excessive, I do it to make up for the fact that we can not rely on their participation. This means that “life happens” and people have to cancel, but it is also important because people get sick and often can't hold their watches, and the others have to cover. The flipside of this is that there is more food to cook, water to bring, and a bigger load on the head....oh, and work for me to coordinate.

Tom, Madison (Mad Dog) Har Rai, Max and Me. (If Mad Dog looks like he just woke up you would be right.) Charleston Fuel Dock

The crew

Tom Muir: retired captain, engineer, rigger, and instructor. Someone I met working at Seattle Sailing Club so many years ago, when he was head of maintenance for their 40-boat fleet. Tom was going to be the first mate and was glad to come along and not be the captain. Also, he is from southern Cali and looking forward to getting some family visits and surfing in once down South.

Madison Rowley: former crew aboard the tall ship Lady Washington and one of my first junior sailing students when I was teaching at Island Sailing Club in Portland. I think I was 19 or 20, and he was 14. Madison and I reconnected years after the JR Camp, and he crewed on my Merit 25 and Moore 24 in their respective campaigns.

HarRai Khalsa: a friend of Madison's and former delivery crew and friend who had recently hired me to help him find a boat for his slip in Hood River.

Max Heckscher: An alumni of the Griffin Bay Adventure Advanced Coastal Cruising program, Max proved to be such a great hand in the class that he took from Me and Tom Muir on Tom’s 53-foot Andrews, that I asked if he wanted to join my crew on an Oregon Offshore race we did in 2021. A boat owner and conveniently between jobs, Max is the paradigm of an invaluable shipmate offshore. Always engaged where we are. His dedication to doing what needs to be done without instruction is such a help when my brain is swimming in the decision-making process, weighing risks.